Jewellery as Art
Contemporary jewellery needs to be tempered with good design, fine workmanship and an understanding of the need for a piece to be both beautiful and wearable. I believe that jewellery is a language. Yes, it can and should, be something beautiful in it's own right, but each piece also tells a story about it's owner and it is contemporary jewellery that has by far the largest vocabulary.
Thursday, 14 March 2019
Tuesday, 25 September 2018
Ruby and Ribbon
This was a Custom Design for a valued Client. The small Ruby had sentimental value and the "Double Ribbon" effect suggests continuence, strength and completeness. The heavily "marked" finish really brought the Ruby to life and highlighted the doubled effect.
www.southwindsilver.com
Thursday, 30 August 2018
Nickel Content
A recent article took my eye with importance to all Jewellery and accessories wearers.
Scratching at the Surface by Bianca Mangion
The incidences of Nickel allergy are increasing, with consumers sporting ever more jewellery and piercings.
Nobody knows exactly how many people suffer from Allergic Contact Dermatitis (or Nickel Allergy): however it would be a rare Jeweller who hasn't had a Customer mention the problem.
The inappropriate use of nickel is a worldwide problem and responses such as " Oh I can't wear this, I am allergic" are fairly commonplace.
In Simple Terms:
any nickel allergy arises when skin is exposed to nickel ions, particles that are created when the nickel in your Earring or Belt Buckle, made using nickel metal or an alloy containing nickel, is corroded by contact with the acids and salts in our skin.
Like any allergy, thresholds differ from person to person, but overall the skin is permeable to nickel ions. When they penetrate the skin, the body recognises these ions as foreign bodies leading to the creation of memory cells which facilitate a reaction to nickel when subsequent exposures are high enough.
This means that one is not born with a nickel allergy, it develops through contact with nickel and once your body has created the "memory " cells, you will react to nickel for the rest of your life.
There are many medical journal articles devoted to understanding what happens when someone experiences initial sensitisation. Subsequent exposure to nickel ions can lead to: dermatitis, inflammation, eczema, and blisters!
In chronic sufferers reactions can be brought on by the nickel content of foods such as Chocolate, Oatmeal, Peas, Beans, Lentils, Tea and Coffee. Frequent contact with Coins and Cutlery can cause hand rashes and eczema.
Because direct and prolonged contact between the skin and the nickel containing object is the quickest way to trigger an allergic reaction, the greatest single cause of nickel sensitisation is thought to be body piercing.
A study by Swedish Dermatologist Alexander Fisher determined that 95 per cent of nickel-sensitised women had pierced ears. However Jewellery is not the only factor and factors such as hormone differences are believed to play a part.
Australian Body Piercing Artist Peter Sherringham believes that the incidence of Nickel Allergies have been reduced but he is concerned that the glut of poor quality products may see a marked increase in the coming years.
What can you do?:
Avoid plated jewellery:
This includes a "nickel flash" which some manufacturers use to add shine to their product.
9kt Plated products.
Nickel Plated Sterling Silver.
Nickel plated brass.
Avoid white Gold as it can contain as much as 7per cent Nickel to increase colour and hardness.
Watches: occaisionally the Stainless Steel used for the back of the watch may fall below the " corrosion resistance" level.
Belts: Try to ensure that your bulky Belt Buckle does not touch your skin. Better to purchase a Belt with a Brass Buckle than a Nickel Plated one.
Try to ensure that an bulk manufactured Jewellery that you purchase, where the surface will touch your skin is marketed as Nickel free.
Purchase your earrings from a Jeweller who makes his/her own hooks and findings. It is easy to see if the hooks are stamped and if they are shaped differently. Note that many Jewellery crafters simply buy in pre-made hooks with little or no idea of the comosition.
Scratching at the Surface by Bianca Mangion
The incidences of Nickel allergy are increasing, with consumers sporting ever more jewellery and piercings.
Nobody knows exactly how many people suffer from Allergic Contact Dermatitis (or Nickel Allergy): however it would be a rare Jeweller who hasn't had a Customer mention the problem.
The inappropriate use of nickel is a worldwide problem and responses such as " Oh I can't wear this, I am allergic" are fairly commonplace.
In Simple Terms:
any nickel allergy arises when skin is exposed to nickel ions, particles that are created when the nickel in your Earring or Belt Buckle, made using nickel metal or an alloy containing nickel, is corroded by contact with the acids and salts in our skin.
Like any allergy, thresholds differ from person to person, but overall the skin is permeable to nickel ions. When they penetrate the skin, the body recognises these ions as foreign bodies leading to the creation of memory cells which facilitate a reaction to nickel when subsequent exposures are high enough.
This means that one is not born with a nickel allergy, it develops through contact with nickel and once your body has created the "memory " cells, you will react to nickel for the rest of your life.
There are many medical journal articles devoted to understanding what happens when someone experiences initial sensitisation. Subsequent exposure to nickel ions can lead to: dermatitis, inflammation, eczema, and blisters!
In chronic sufferers reactions can be brought on by the nickel content of foods such as Chocolate, Oatmeal, Peas, Beans, Lentils, Tea and Coffee. Frequent contact with Coins and Cutlery can cause hand rashes and eczema.
Because direct and prolonged contact between the skin and the nickel containing object is the quickest way to trigger an allergic reaction, the greatest single cause of nickel sensitisation is thought to be body piercing.
A study by Swedish Dermatologist Alexander Fisher determined that 95 per cent of nickel-sensitised women had pierced ears. However Jewellery is not the only factor and factors such as hormone differences are believed to play a part.
Australian Body Piercing Artist Peter Sherringham believes that the incidence of Nickel Allergies have been reduced but he is concerned that the glut of poor quality products may see a marked increase in the coming years.
What can you do?:
Avoid plated jewellery:
This includes a "nickel flash" which some manufacturers use to add shine to their product.
9kt Plated products.
Nickel Plated Sterling Silver.
Nickel plated brass.
Avoid white Gold as it can contain as much as 7per cent Nickel to increase colour and hardness.
Watches: occaisionally the Stainless Steel used for the back of the watch may fall below the " corrosion resistance" level.
Belts: Try to ensure that your bulky Belt Buckle does not touch your skin. Better to purchase a Belt with a Brass Buckle than a Nickel Plated one.
Try to ensure that an bulk manufactured Jewellery that you purchase, where the surface will touch your skin is marketed as Nickel free.
Purchase your earrings from a Jeweller who makes his/her own hooks and findings. It is easy to see if the hooks are stamped and if they are shaped differently. Note that many Jewellery crafters simply buy in pre-made hooks with little or no idea of the comosition.
Sunday, 22 January 2017
Art is where the heart is

He had worn this signet every day of her life, so when he passed away she needed me to create something individual that she could wear that would remind her of her Father.
This was my solution.
The Chain pictured is from one of my earliest collections of Albert Fob Chains. It has been worn consistently over many years, but the addition of this heart has given it new life.
The Heart, details and settings are made in Sterling Silver with the Dial, Battery and Earth Strap in Brass. The whole, including the PaperClip style Albert has been Oxidised.
Thursday, 26 November 2015
Memories
A client brought in her Grandmothers Wedding Ring and asked to have it made in to a Pendant to wear every day to keep her memories close at hand.
This is the result.
Saturday, 17 October 2015
Thursday, 24 September 2015
EarWings, Ear Climbers...
I have finally gotten around to re-photographing my EarWing Collection on the Ear.
In the past this was just too difficult as the model's ears would get red and swollen within a few changes of earrings.(Try it at home!)
This time I created a life sized photograph, backed with rubber to create the 3D aspect of an ear and away we go. No complaints about rough handling of the model, No gentle massaging of the models ego. Just me and my Art!
This design is one of my original EarWing series. The waves intended to reflect both ancient Celtic Culture and our own Cultures relationship with the sea.
www.24sevenjewellers.com
In the past this was just too difficult as the model's ears would get red and swollen within a few changes of earrings.(Try it at home!)
This time I created a life sized photograph, backed with rubber to create the 3D aspect of an ear and away we go. No complaints about rough handling of the model, No gentle massaging of the models ego. Just me and my Art!
This design is one of my original EarWing series. The waves intended to reflect both ancient Celtic Culture and our own Cultures relationship with the sea.
www.24sevenjewellers.com
Friday, 11 September 2015
Cultural Significance
Custom made for a Pacific Island family to present to a son coming of age.
This pendant, hand carved in Sterling Silver, depicts a traditional tool that is presented at "coming of age" the tool is normally made of wood and is used for a variety of traditional tasks.
I hung this from a simple hand made cable chain.
Tuesday, 2 June 2015
Down by the Sea
The Ring sits comfortably on the finger and does not protrude to far for everyday wear.
I have also made this with Gemstones set on one side in a 9kt Gold rub-over setting to compliment the organic nature of the Ring.
Thursday, 14 May 2015
Peridot Oxidised Ring
This Sterling Silver Ring with Peridot and 9kt Yellow gold trim is made using a technique called Reticulation. It requires great skill to cause the outer surface of the silver to "melt and bubble" without melting the entire Ring.
The entire Ring is then Oxidised to darken the surface and highlight the irregularities.
In this Ring the Peridot is also set in a 9kt Yellow Gold setting.
See:
www.philipthornton.co.nz
www.24sevenjewellers.com
The entire Ring is then Oxidised to darken the surface and highlight the irregularities.
In this Ring the Peridot is also set in a 9kt Yellow Gold setting.
See:
www.philipthornton.co.nz
www.24sevenjewellers.com
Wednesday, 19 February 2014
To view this delightful Shibori collar, sapphire and ruby by
CHRISTINE HAFERMALZ-WHEELER
click here
- - -
An elegant band of 18ct gold in Christine’s favoured Shibori technique, threaded with a string of sapphire and ruby. Diamonds garnish the whole. Sumptuous!
Christine works from her Gallery at Oneroa, Waiheke Island New Zealand
To contact her regarding work or to visit the Gallery:
Telephone: (+64) 9 372 7509
Mobile: (+64) 21 817 209
Email: chw@TheArtistGoldsmith.com
Skype: TheArtistGoldsmith
Facebook: TheArtistGoldsmith
CHRISTINE HAFERMALZ-WHEELER
click here
- - -
An elegant band of 18ct gold in Christine’s favoured Shibori technique, threaded with a string of sapphire and ruby. Diamonds garnish the whole. Sumptuous!
Christine works from her Gallery at Oneroa, Waiheke Island New Zealand
Telephone: (+64) 9 372 7509
Mobile: (+64) 21 817 209
Email: chw@TheArtistGoldsmith.com
Skype: TheArtistGoldsmith
Facebook: TheArtistGoldsmith
I also loved this Ring made from.....the Client's mother's wedding band, two pearls from an oyster feast and a diamond that had TWICE been lost and found! How special is that!
Friday, 14 February 2014
Second Chance Broach
From Peter Deckers at Fingers Gallery
Fingers Gallery was established in 1974 to provide an outlet for those Jewellery Makers who's jewellery really are works of Art.
Peter calls this piece "Second Chance".
Fingers Gallery was established in 1974 to provide an outlet for those Jewellery Makers who's jewellery really are works of Art.
Peter calls this piece "Second Chance".
Wednesday, 5 February 2014
Organic Flotsam Bracelet
Sterling Silver Bracelet from Fingers Gallery, opposite the Auckland City Art Gallery in Kitchener St, Auckland
Created by Roy Mason, using the lost wax casting technique, Roy has created highly individual links to form this very organic looking Bracelet which he calls "Flotsam".
Created by Roy Mason, using the lost wax casting technique, Roy has created highly individual links to form this very organic looking Bracelet which he calls "Flotsam".
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